As
anyone who has had a baby knows,
little people do not travel
lightly. Packing for them takes
an age and trips are
overshadowed by the sheer bulk
of baby baggage. So the very
hought that you could leave it
all behind with a programme
called Baby Go Lightly run by
he Almyra hotel in Paphos,
Cyprus, was music to my ears.
The idea is that when you book
your room, you can also book
everything from a travel cot to
swimming nappies with the click
of a mouse, most of it
complimentary. Buggies cost a
reasonable £2.33 a day, though
he 70p per nappy seems a bit
steep, especially as we later
found them in town for more or
less what they cost at home.
It sounded good, but I was still
sceptical as my husband François
and I set off with Christian and
our two small cases for the
four-and-a-half-hour flight. My
internet booking detailing
Christian’s nappy size and
predilection for pear purée had
wice disappeared in cyberspace.
Then there was the problem of
how we would get to and through
he airport if we weren’t going
o pick up our buggy until we
reached the hotel (with aching
arms was the answer). When we
were met at Paphos airport with
a car seat for six-month-olds —
Christian was four months — I
was convinced that the whole
hing was going to be a
disaster.
Relief came a 15-minute drive
later when we opened the door to
our room at the Almyra to find
not only the most enormous bed
you’ve ever seen, with chic,
muted furnishings, but also an
Aladdin’s cave of baby gear, all
spanking new. Included was a
baby seat we liked so much that
we bought one on our return and
a walker in which Christian
spent many a happy minute
scooting over the white marble
floor. A word to the management
and the offending car seat was
swapped for a more suitable
model, while a quick check of
he nappies and baby food showed
my instructions had been
followed.
“When I was travelling with my
daughter in London, I was struck
by the sheer amount of stuff you
had to carry, so I came up with
he concept of Baby Go Lightly,”
said the hotel’s co-owner
Natasha Michaelides. “Usually
luxury hotels aren’t for kids. I
wanted to change that.”
And she has. In the hotel lobby,
with its white marble and
floor-to-ceiling windows giving
on to the sea, I felt perfectly
at ease wheeling Christian
around in his buggy. That we
were welcome throughout the
hotel — if we were ever in doubt
after the smiles Christian
received from staff — was
evident from the buggy ramps
beside every set of stairs.
Though sleek and minimalist, the
Almyra is a design hotel that is
meant to be lived in. Travelling
out of season at the end of
February meant that we had the
run of the place. Of course, it
wasn’t yet warm enough for us to
swim in the slate-lined pool.
Nor could we dine on the rooftop
of our Kyma suite — an expanse
of white looking out to sea. But
he days were pleasant enough
for us to open the picture
windows and spill out on to our
daybeds to admire the view.
We ventured out into that view,
walking along the promenade to
find the once-charming fishing
harbour of Paphos replaced by a
Costa del Sol-style collection
of restaurants, where fish and
chips and bacon and eggs were
more prevalent than Cypriot
cooking. But at the end of the
promenade we found the stunning
mosaics in the House of
Dionysos.
In the evenings we wheeled
Christian up to the hotel
restaurant to relish our first
dinners out since his birth. In
he chic dining room, our son’s
first cry brought the waitress
o our side to walk him around,
while we were left to enjoy the
delicacies produced by executive
chef Rob Shipman.
Formerly of the London
restaurant Nobu, Shipman has
created a Mediterranean menu
hat unsurprisingly comes with a
strong Japanese influence —
fillet of beef with black and
white sesame seeds, wakame and
green chilli sauce, and sea bass
with raspberry vinegar,
coriander and bean sprouts. We
ore ourselves away from his
ables for a couple of nights to
sample the local cuisine, but
found it disappointing in
comparison — the fish overcooked
and with more emphasis on
quantity than quality.
Which makes me conclude that
although baby might be able to
go lightly to the Almyra, after
a few meals from Mr Shipman, mum
and dad will certainly not be so
light on their return.